History, FAQ and Manuals for Vintage Watches. Vintage Watch Guide          VINTAGE WATCH GUIDE: A USER'S MANUAL[Back to Top]I. Getting to Know Your Watch — Watch “Anatomy” II. How Your Timepiece is Powered.

Is Your Watch Quartz? A battery powered quartz watch movement. If your watch is powered by a ‘quartz’ or battery powered movement, then it will continue to operate until the battery is completely drained (presuming all other internal pats and connectors are in good working order).

Battery- powered watches should not be left unused for extended periods of time — a battery should be replaced or removed before they burst or leak, which can cause serious damage to the watch movement. A battery will generally last at least 2 years.

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Is Your Watch Manual Wind? A manual- wind watch movement. If your watch is powered by a manual- winding movement, then it is solely powered by winding the crown of the watch in a clockwise or forward direction until resistance is felt and the crown cannot be wound any further. Instructions will be detailed in the next section. A full wind is required before wearing and should last between 2.

Most people generally wind their watch completely each morning before putting it on their wrist. Is Your Watch Automatic / Self- Winding? A rotor- powered automatic watch movement. A watch with an automatic or self- winding movement does not require winding, but can also be wound manually if desired (instructions for how to wind an automatic watch will be detailed in the next section). These watches possess a rotor or bumper mechanism that will move and automatically wind the watch as you wear it over the course of the day. If you are sufficiently active while wearing the watch throughout the day (for at least an 8- hour period), the watch should maintain a power reserve for between 2. III. How to Wind a Mechanical Timepiece.

A. Manual- Wind Timepieces. Place the crown (winder) between your thumb and forefinger. Turn the crown forward (clockwise) with a long stroke. The crown will spin in both directions, but will only wind in one direction: clockwise (or forward). To fully wind a watch requires 1. Turn the crown clockwise until it stops abruptly and cannot be wound any further.

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A manual- wind timepiece should be wound until resistance is felt and the crown will no longer turn clockwise, whereas an automatic watch can be found forever without risk of damage. Your fully wound watch will run for at least 2. If the watch is worn daily, it should be wound, fully and completely until the crown comes to a stop, each day at the same time for peak performance.

It is not necessary to wind the watch if you are not wearing it that day. These watches are rugged; do not be afraid of “overwinding”.

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B. Automatic (Perpetual, Self- winding) Timepieces. Automatic watches have a small rotating weight inside the movement which spins around when you move your arm and winds the spring which runs the watch. If you wear an automatic watch every day for 6- 1.

If you do not wear it for a day or more, it will stop. You can start your automatic watch by winding it 5- 8 complete turns manually before you put it on. Then set the time and wear it normally. An automatic timepiece can be wound indefinitely with no damage to the watch, however, 3. Wind Clockwise, Until Complete Resistance is Felt. Do not fear "overwinding", your watch is fully wound when it is no longer possible to turn the crown clockwise.

IV. How to Set Your Watch. Set the time by gently pulling out the crown and turning the crown clockwise or counter- clockwise to set the hands. You can set the hands. You can set the hands forward or backward.

Many Rolex ‘Oyster’ models feature a patented screw- down crown. With these watches you will first need to unscrew the crown, rotating it counterclockwise until it is removed from the tube threads.

You will then be able to gently pull out the crown to the final notch and set the time as with any other timepiece. After setting the time, screw the crown back on by pushing the crown in toward the case while simultaneously rotating it clockwise. This is a standard crown. At left, the crown is fully in and ready to wind. At right, the crown is out and ready to set.

Date or calendar watches may have additional notches between the winding and setting positions for the purpose of calibrating these functions. This is a patented Rolex ‘Oyster’ screw- down crown. At left, the crown is fully threaded in and locked to the case, it will not wind or set. At right, the crown is un- threaded and pulled to the farthest notch. The hands may then be manipulated. V. Caring For Your Mechanical Timepiece. Dropping and/or Banging. Be mindful when wearing your vintage timepiece not to drop or bang it!

When new, many of these timepieces were designed to withstand a fall of no more than three feet on a raised wood surface. Now that these timepieces are much older, their parts may be rare, costly, or not readily available to replace. Though a watch may appear completely intact after a drop or bang, damage may be much more extensive internally. Even a slight bang can cause serious damage if impact occurs at the right angle. Water or Other Fluids Do not expose your vintage watch to water or other fluids. Many vintage timepieces were not equipped with gaskets to prevent exposure to moisture, worse than water is exposure to steam. If water enters the mechanism of your vintage timepiece, pull out the crown as far as it will go, immediately place the watch crystal- down in a resealable bag of rice, and close the bag.

Bring the watch in to us for service AS SOON AS POSSIBLE: any delay could cause further damage and corrosion. We also recommend not wearing excessive perfume on the same wrist you wear your watch. These oils can potentially react with the metal of your timepiece or enter it and interfere with the delicate balance of oils within your watch. Magnetism. In the modern world, there are many “dangers” to the optimal functioning of your mechanical vintage timepiece (note: quartz watches are immune to magnetism). Most frequently, magnetism is the cause behind a watch running abnormally fast, slow, or stopping altogether.

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When most vintage watches were manufactured, people lived in a world with fewer sources of magnetism and electricity — no laptops (huge battery beneath the keyboard), mobile phones (large battery behind the screen), metal detectors at airports or court houses, or even purses with magnetic clasps (many purses today have magnets on the fastener, which your watch will pass by every time your hand reaches in). When many of these vintage wristwatches were first produced, the greatest electrical / magnetic source in day- to- day life was probably a television set. After a long day at work, a person might come home at night and then place their timepiece on top of the TV set. All of that direct exposure could lead to a timepiece becoming magnetized.

In today’s world, you might accidentally leave your watch when passing through metal detectors (ask to wear it during a body scan) and avoid putting your watch in direct and prolonged contact with batteries, electrical equipment, and magnets. Magnetism is in most cases easily reversible, and can be tested for with a common, simple compass. When passing a wristwatch very close and slowly over a standard compass, the directional compass indicator should remain completely still. A magnetized watch will cause the indicator on a compass to move or spin. Magnetism can be quickly removed using a “Demagnetizer” which can be purchased online. In certain rare occasions, a watch can become so magnetized that magnetism can only be removed by disassembling the watch and demagnetizing individual components. Though magnetism is in our experience, the most common cause of malfunction, there are a number of other possible causes or explanations, and it is important to remember we are discussing items which are mechanical: everything can be fixed.

Basic Design - Atomic Rockets. This section is intended to address some gaps in available information about spacecraft design in the Plausible Mid- Future (PMF), with an eye towards space warfare. It is not a summary of such information, most of which can be found at Atomic Rockets. The largest gap in current practice comes in the preliminary design phase. A normal method used is to specify the fully- loaded mass of a vessel, and then work out the amounts required for remass, tanks, engine, and so on, and then figure out the payload (habitat, weapons, sensors, cargo, and so on) from there. While there are times this is appropriate engineering practice (notably if you’re launching the spacecraft from Earth and have a fixed launch mass), in the majority of cases the payload mass should be the starting point. The following equation can be used for such calculations: Where P is the payload mass (any fixed masses, such as habitats, weapons, sensors, etc.), M is the loaded (wet) mass, R is the mass ratio of the rocket, T is the tank fraction (or any mass that scales with reaction mass) as a decimal ratio of such mass (e.

E is any mass that scales with the overall mass of the ship, such as engines or structure, also as a decimal. This equation adequately describes a basic spacecraft with a single propulsion system.

It is possible to use the same equation to calculate the mass of a spacecraft with two separate propulsion systems. The terms in this equation are identical to those in the equation above, with R1 and T1 representing the mass ratio and tank fraction for the (arbitrary) first engine, and R2 and T2 likewise for the second. Watch Suicide Kings Online Mic on this page.

Calculate both mass ratios based on the fully- loaded spacecraft. If both mass ratios approach 2, then the bottom of the equation will come out negative, and the spacecraft obviously cannot be built as specified. Note that when doing delta- V calculations to get the mass ratio, each engine is assumed to expend all of its delta- V while the tanks for the other engine are still full. In reality, the spacecraft will have more delta- V than those calculations would indicate, but solving properly for a more realistic and complicated mission profile requires numerical methods outside the scope of this paper.

One design problem that is commonly raised is the matter of artificial gravity. In the setting under discussion, this can only be achieved by spin. The details of this are available elsewhere, but these schemes essentially boil down to either spinning the entire spacecraft or just spinning the hab itself. Both create significant design problems. Spinning the spacecraft involves rating all systems for operations both in free fall and under spin, including tanks, thrusters, and plumbing. The loads imposed by spin are likely to be significantly larger than any thrust loads, which drives up structural mass significantly.

This can be minimized by keeping things close to the spin axis, but that is likely to stretch the ship, which imposes its own structural penalties. A spinning hab has to be connected to the rest of the spacecraft, which is not a trivial engineering problem.

The connection will have to be low- friction, transmit thrust loads, and pass power, fluids, and quite possibly people as well. And it must work 2. All of this trouble with artificial gravity is required to avoid catastrophic health problems on arrival.

However, there is a potential alternative. Medical science might someday be able to prevent the negative effects of Zero- G on the body, making the life of the spacecraft designer much easier. When this conclusion was put before Rob Herrick, an epidemiologist, he did not think it was feasible. The problem is that they [the degenerative effects of zero- G] are the result of mechanical unloading and natural physiological processes. The muscles don't work as hard, and so they atrophy.

The bones don't carry the same dynamic loads, so they demineralize. Both are the result of normal physiological processes whereby the body adapts to the environment, only expending what energy is necessary. The only way to treat that pharmacologically is to block those natural processes, and that opens up a really bad can of worms.

All kinds of transporters would have to be knocked out, you'd have to monkey with the natural muscle processes, and God knows what else. Essentially, you're talking about chemically overriding lots of homeostasis mechanisms, and we have no idea if said overrides are reversible, or what the consequences of that would be in other tissues. My bet is bad to worse. As the whole field of endocrine disruptors is discovering, messing with natural hormonal processes is very very dangerous.     Even if it worked with no off- target effects, you'd have major issues. Body development would be all kinds of screwed up, so it's not something you'd want to do for children or young adults. Since peak bone mass is not accrued until early twenties, a lot of your recruits would be in a window where they're supposed to still be growing, and you're chemically blocking that.

Similarly, would you have issues with obesity? If your musculature is not functioning normally (to prevent atrophy), how will that effect the body's energy balance? What other bodily processes that are interconnected will be effected? Then you get into all the effects of going back into a gravity well. Would you come off the drugs (and thus require a washout period before you go downside, and a ramp- up period before you could go topside again)?     Spin and gravity is an engineering headache, but a solvable one. Pharmacologically altering the body to prevent the loss of muscle and bone mass that the body seems surplus to requirements has all kinds of unknowns, off target- effects and unintended consequences.

You're going to put people at severe risk for medical complications, some of which could be lifelong or even lethal.”This is a compelling case that it is not possible to treat the effects of zero- G medically. However, if for story reasons a workaround is needed, medical treatment is no less plausible than many devices used even in relatively hard Sci- Fi.

The task of designing spacecraft for a sci- fi setting is complicated by the need to find out all the things that need to be included, and get numbers for them. The author has created a spreadsheet to automate this task, including an editable sheet of constants to allow the user to customize it to his needs. The numbers there are the author’s best guess for Mid- PMF settings, but too complicated to duplicate here.

Rick Robinson’s rule of thumb is that spacecraft will (in the sort of setting examined here) become broadly comparable to jetliners in cost, at about $1 million/ton in current dollars. This is probably fairly accurate for civilian vessels, at least to a factor of 3 or so.

Warships are likely to be more expensive, as most of the components that separate warships from civilian ships are very expensive for their mass. In aircraft terms, an F- 1. F- 1. 5, while the F/A- 1.

E/F Super Hornet is closer to $4 million/ton. This is certainly a better approximation than the difference between warships and cargo ships, as spacecraft and aircraft both have relatively expensive structures and engines, unlike naval vessels, where by far the most expensive component of a warship is its electronics. For example, the ships of the Arleigh Burke- class of destroyers seem to be averaging between $1. As mentioned in Section 5, some have suggested that the drive would be modular, with the front end of the ship (containing weapons, crew, cargo, and the like) built separately and attached for various missions.

This is somewhat plausible in a commercial context, but has serious problems in a military one. However, the idea of buying a separate drive and payload and mating them together is quite likely, and could see military and civilian vessels sharing drive types. This is not as strange as present experience would lead us to believe.